lundi 12 novembre 2007

Vive les vins différents !

A vous de choisir,
goûter un vin, en sachant qu'il est chargé de sulfites ou encore en pensant qu'il est issu d'un domaine viticole inondé de plus ou moins de pesticides,
ou alors,
goûter le vin de Lagarette ou des vins "naturels" de qualité et vous apprécierez la différence....


Alexandra, Karl et Julie à Lagarette, été 2007

Que se passe-t-il avec les vins différents, pourquoi tant de haine et de violence à leur égard ? S’ils disent qu’ils sont "bio", on leur reproche de faire du marketing et on accentue les contrôles ; s’ils disent qu’ils sont "biodynamiques", on les suspecte d’ésotérie ou d’alliance avec quelque secte obscure, s’ils disent qu’ils sont "naturels", on leur reproche un naturalisme dépassé. On peut leur reprocher ces « noms », ils se cherchent, ils tâtonnent, à la recherche du « nom » qui traduirait leur vin et leur pratique. Bref leur différence.

Mais il y a pire, dans les dernières attaques : ils seraient mensongers et finalement auraient le même goût que les autres vins. Malgré leurs efforts pour se différencier, pour affirmer leurs attachements à la particularité de leurs sites, à leurs manières de faire, à l’attention qu’ils portent à la qualité de leurs vins, voire aux questions de santé, mais aussi au soin de l’environnement que demande leurs activités ; rien à y faire, finalement ils feraient le même vin que les autres.

Faire revenir au même des pratiques qui tentent de se différencier les unes des autres a un nom ; le regard qui fabrique ce « même » est le regard du pouvoir, le mépris des différences. Pour commencer on va s’attacher aux pratiques majoritaires, les grands noms, les grands crus, les grandes maisons, qui par leur puissance sont la référence. Ensuite, les vins différents, au petits noms et minoritaires seront alors jugés à l’aune de cette référence. Les critères étant nombreux et comme chacun sait l’étude attentive menant à l’évidence de différences irréductibles, et bien on va prendre un critère de comparaison le plus mystérieux qui soit. Un critère de comparaison qui n’existe que dans le nez et le palais de chaque dégustateur et amateur : le goût.

Comparer les vins entre eux, discerner, apprécier est en effet la chose la mieux partagée au monde ; seulement voilà, il y a des professionnels du « goût ». Sans surprise, une étude rapide décrirait assez bien que ces professionnels du goût ont fait leurs classes dans les grands châteaux, ou chez des alliés de ceux-ci… Ainsi se fabriquent les critères du goût, ceux avec lesquels les petits vins différents sont aujourd’hui jugés. Et bonne nouvelle, ils sont aussi bon. Tant mieux, faire un bon vin n’est-il pas le rêve de tout viticulteur ?

Hélas pour les fabriquants de l’évaluation des vins, leur notation, aujourd’hui le monde a un peu changé. Il semble que comme d’autres secteurs, nous ayons appris que l’ajout de certains produits pouvaient créer des problèmes de santé publique, ou polluer les sols, et que ces conséquences pourraient nous revenir sur les bras bien plus vite que prévu. Les petits vins différents peuvent être fiers, ils font un aussi bon vin ; mais en plus ont compris qu’il n’y avait pas que cela d’important. Que le goût pouvait être un peu plus mystérieux ! Goûtez donc un vin en pensant qu’il y a une bonne dose de sulfite dedans, ou encore en pensant à un domaine viticole inondé de pesticides, et vous verrez le goût qu’il a….

Le regard du pouvoir, celui qui voudrait oublier les différences, vit dans le monde du passé. Un monde où tout revenait au même, ou certains étaient certains des « bonnes » différences, les érigeant en modèles auxquels tous devraient se conformer. Non seulement ce regard est contraire a la spécificité du monde du vin, mais en plus il est dangereux, aussi bien pour les amateurs de vins que pour les écosystèmes dont les pieds de vignes ont besoin.

Alexandra Minvielle
alexandra.minvielle@chello.fr

29 commentaires:

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